Sunday, August 25, 2013

Burda Style 7136: chambray shirt

Do any of you seamstresses read Sunni Standing's blog, A Fashionable Stitch? I do and I have been really inspired by her "Everyday Wardrobe" series. I first started sewing because I loved vintage-style clothing, but couldn't find the styles I liked (or I couldn't afford them if I did). I've sewn up a nice variety of vintage-style dresses since 2005, but sadly, they're getting very little use nowadays. This is partially because of the changing needs of motherhood (different figure, weight fluctuations, needed nursing access) and partially because I really do have fewer appropriate times to wear these dresses. We're part of a church where the "dress code" is decidedly casual, and besides, it's hard to walk in high heels with a baby on your hip. Douglas and I haven't had too many fancy dates (there's a dearth of "classy" restaurants in our town). My wardrobe needs have really shifted. So even though I'm drawn to beautiful fabrics and interesting vintage patterns, I want to spend my time on projects that are actually going to get worn!

This past spring, I poked around for a few patterns that would work for an everyday wardrobe and I decided to try out a classic button-down shirt. Burda Style 7136 fit the bill because it looked like it was pretty customizable and similar to some shirts I already own and like. I used a gift card to get some cotton chambray from Jo-Ann Fabrics and went to work!

chambray shirt

I made a few changes -- I omitted the back darts for a more casual fit, lengthened the shirt and sleeves slightly, drafted some pockets with a box pleat, and drafted a front button placket. I did a lot of topstitching with white topstitching thread, which slowed down the construction a bit when I had to switch back and forth between threads. Everything was pretty smooth sailing until I got to the sleeves. I followed the Burda Style directions for making the sleeve plackets (something new to me) and they didn't turn out very well. I could have lived with that, but somehow I mis-measured the length of the sleeves when cutting out and they ended up too short -- like two inches too short. It's the first time I've had to go back to the store to buy more fabric in order to finish a project!! Before I tackled the sleeve plackets again, I watched this YouTube video and cut a separate piece for the button placket, rather than just folding it under and stitching as the BurdaStyle instructions suggest. They looked much better the second go-around. The only other problem with the pattern I noticed is that the sleeve cuff seems to be too narrow, width-wise -- I barely had 1/4" seam allowance when sewing the ends.

chambray shirt

(I also have to mention, I recycled all the buttons I used on this shirt from an old J. Crew button-down shirt of my husband's that had been ripped beyond repair! Ladies, if your husband wears out his dress shirts, snip the buttons off and save them for future projects!))

Aside from the problems I spoke of, I do recommend this pattern! I'm pleased with the end result and I've already worn this shirt a lot. Now that I've got the fitting kinks out I'm dreaming of a second version in Liberty of London lawn -- I guess I still can't get away from my love of beautiful fabrics!

6 comments:

  1. wow, you did such a beautiful job on it! Okay, and talk to me about topstitching thread: I accidentally bought it to go with the khaki I was using to sew my daughter a school jumper. I had a terrible time getting my machine to like it. I tried several needles - the denim needle seemed to work okay - and found I had to sew verrrrrrry slowly. I have a Bernina 220, which I think I recall is similar to yours. Tell me how you managed it! I adore topstitching and put it everywhere I can.

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    1. Thanks, Margo! I use a topstitching needle with my topstitching thread -- they should have them at your local Jo-Ann Fabrics. Were the stitches skipping? Sometimes I have to play around with the thread tension on fabric scraps, especially if there are varying layers of fabric to sew through, to get a uniform look. I also just use regular thread in my bobbin. For sewing a straight line, I find it helpful to watch the stitch guide on the presser foot instead of the needle. Selecting the "down" option (so your needle automatically stops in the "down" position when you stop stitching) also helps. Those are all the tips I can think of off the top of my head. I, too, love the look of a really neat topstitching job! :)

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  2. I'm quite impressed, Laura! Your finishing detail are exquisite, and the white topstitching really makes the shirt "pop."

    I can empathize with your sewing dilemma -- I find it interesting to look back and see how many of my early sewing projects were costumes, historical garments, or formals. My current "to-sew" list looks much different than it did just a few years ago!

    By the way, I totally forgot you were pregnant when I saw this picture! You look fabulous! :-)

    Blessings,
    Shannnon

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    1. Thank you, Shannon! It seems like we're mirroring each other on this sewing journey... first the historical/vintage garments, then the maternity, now the baby clothes... well, it's part of life and the variety keeps things interesting! ;-)

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  3. How pretty. I recently went out and purchased a chambray top at... Old Navy. Certainly not one as lovely and well made as yours!

    The dress code at my church is casual, too. Somewhere at some point I felt the Holy Spirit encouraging me to still dress up. I work from home so unless it's church, a work function and dinner out I am in jeans and a t-shirt. So, I wear dresses to church. And I almost always receive complements... usually from men. I think people appreciate it :)

    Congratulations also on baby #3! That is such exciting news :)

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    1. Thanks, Katie. I almost always wear a skirt to church... ya know, something a little nicer than everyday. But it's more like the "momiform" (maxi skirt, denim jacket, fashion scarf) than what I used to wear (vintage dress, hose, high heels). I appreciate seeing ladies wearing nice dresses, too! :)

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